If you’re shooting 6×9 and use Portra 160 or Ektar 100, it’s possible, under exactly the right circumstance, to get a 2400dpi scan off an Epson V600 that has NO visible grain. My local lab charges $5 to develop 120 or 35mm C41, and I scan at home w/ the aforesaid Epson. I’m thinking about buying one of these beasts to replace my Mamiya Press (most of my work is at night, rangefinder focusing is a PITA, the lenses are old and flare prone, etc). When it comes to analog “there’s no replacement for discplacement.” In many ways an RB67 would be more sensible, but I love the 6×9 format and this is as close as I can get to it with an SLR. (Yes, there’s a 6×8 back for the RB, but it only works in vertical)

Differences between marques of Fuji GX680

Discussion in 'Medium Format' started by mark_brown|2, Jan 6, 2005.

1. 

   mark_brown|2

   I have a Pentax 67 system which I am very pleased with, but I am 
   starting to do interior/architectural work and find the lack of
   Polariod back on the P67 to be a serious limitation, and don't fancy
   the expense of working with the 5x4" kit, not to mention the longer
   exposure times. The fact that the Fuji GX680 system enables shift and
   tilt for all lenses, plus accepts a Polaroid back, appeals to me as
   an alternative system for interiors and architecture.
   
   However, I am confused between the marques of GX680 body - the
   original GX680, the GX680II and the GX680III. Can anyone comment on
   the differences and relative merits/demerits? (Used GX680 bodies can
   be had with a kit from US$700 - US$1400 depending on condition here
   (Tokyo). while GX680II equipment is in the US$2000+ bracket and
   GX680III is out of my reach. I'd be looking for used GX680 unless the
   later marques have overreaching advantages.)
   
   (I suspect an alterative stopgap might be a 6x9 back for my 5x4"
   camera and a wider lens...)

   mark_brown|2, Jan 6, 2005

   #1
2. 

   shiver_me_timbrrrre

   The Achilles Heel of the GX680 and GX680II lies in their need for proprietary Fuji rechargeable NICAD batteries which are as scarce as hen's teeth now. The latest one uses standard battery sizes (lithium CR123 and an optional external battery pack which uses AAs) 
   
   If you can find a way of re-celling the proprietary Fuji battery packs, you are in business.

   shiver_me_timbrrrre, Jan 7, 2005

   #1
3. 

   l_a_k_h_i_n_d_e_r

   There is a AA battery pack available for 680-I,II. I use it. You can find differences on www.gx680.com: Look at the details for its different Backs (multiformat vs fixed), lenses( gx vs gxm) and of course the Bodies (I,II,III, and also version S). It is not very hard to find the 8-cell AA pack. I can not offer you any comparison of its performance with the NiCad counterpart -- I would like to know it too.
   
   Basic relative merits are price. There is nothing substantially
   different between the different models.

   l_a_k_h_i_n_d_e_r, Jan 8, 2005

   #1
4. 

   mark_brown|2

   Thanks for the information. The GX680 site is a great source of information.
   
   From what I can gather, lenses are basically compatible betweeen all systems, so getting a GX680 used is probably a cheap way into the system to start building a collection of glass. The AA battery pack will probably do as a stopgap to overcome the NiCd problem.
   
   Cheers,
   Mark.

   mark_brown|2, Jan 8, 2005

   #1
5. 

   mab

   I use the AA pack on my GX680 with NiMH batteries, with no ill effect and get reasonable life out of a charge. I strongly prefer AA batteries to proprietary batteries in any case.
   
   -matt

   mab, Mar 18, 2005

   #1
6. 

   adrian_wilson|9

   Hi,
   Go for the Fuji GX680 III it is the most sophisticated of all the cameras Fuji manufactured, but please take note if you are looking at the Fuji GX680 IIIs because it has a letter "s" on the end of the model number does not make it a slightly better model, sadly just the opposite the "s" model does not feature the rise n' fall, tilt and swing functions that " Standard" models have. Having said that if you have a 500mm or 100 / 200 zoom then fine because these lenses demand the use of a support rail and as a consequence you cannot make use of tilt and shift functions. If you really wish to be a hero you can use these lenses without the support rail, however expect a cracked frame and a scrap body.

   adrian_wilson|9, May 13, 2009

   #1
7. 

   dennis_ng

   Great pointer! But the web site is gone.

Seeking Opinions: Fuji GX680I or II vs GX680III

Discussion in 'Medium Format Cameras and Accessories' started by rmann, Dec 1, 2009.

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1. Dec 1, 2009#1
   

   rmannSubscriber

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   680

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   Mar 14, 2004

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   New York

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   4x5 Format

   I would be interested in any user's opinions on a Fuji GX680I or II vs the GX680III. 
   
   From what I can gather there are two differences - the battery used and data imprinting by the film back. Am I missing something else that would be important? The body style is also a little different, is that something that would make a difference? Are the accessories interchangeable between the models? Also, there seems to be an extra "data" port on the III's body below the remote release port - what is that used for?

   Bob Mann
   
   www.robert-mann-photography.com
2. Dec 1, 2009#2
   

   dwdmguyMember

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   Interested as well. 
   Thx
3. Dec 1, 2009#3
   

   LightproofMember

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   It is a great camera system to work with. Altough being handy as a baby tiger, it makes great fun to pick a tripod, the GX and take a walk.
   
   Just buy the most copious set that you can find. If you are patient you can get a very nice system for next to nothing. Taking into account that the glass is the same, the question of I II or III is not important.
   
   I now have a decent GX system. Several bellows, 3 lenses, compendium, 2 film backs, 3 magazines, angle view finder, pola back, 2 batteries, 2 chargers, ... It only took me 4 auctions on ebay to have it "complete".
4. Dec 1, 2009#4
   

   keithwmsMember

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   Charlottesvi

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   Multi Format

   As I recall, there are big differences in battery type. I think the earliest required a really outdated battery and there was no option to upgrade (although a decent electronics expert could find a workaround, I am sure). Due to battery concerns, I eventually went for a rb67 pro SD with a 6x8 back and separate LF for those times I really need movements, but I had a very good time with a gx680III.
   
   Note that there are the "S" models to which have no movements, and apparently were intended for straight on portraiture.
   
   Anyway, superb lenses, great prices...

   "Only dead fish follow the stream"
   
   [APUG Portfolio] [APUG Blog] [Website]
5. Dec 1, 2009#5
   

   BosaiyaMember

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   4x5 Format

   You'll have better luck with parts if you go with a III, Fuji still considers it a viable system, or did a couple years back. Last time I called up the guy (there's only one, apparently) to get help with my first generation model he expressed genuine surprise that it still worked.
   
   As of those couple years back you could still buy a AA battery adapter direct from Fuji USA, cost about $75. These were the same ones being sold on eBay for significantly more. If you don't mind the persistence required with the operator to route your call to the right department you might find they still have them laying around.
6. Dec 1, 2009#6
   

   DanielStoneMember

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   one thing that's nice too is the availability of multiple formats. with the GX680III(I know for sure) that you can get adapters for the backs that can be anywhere from 6x4.5 to 6x8. that means 6x6 and 6x7 in addition to the 645 and 6x8. very handy. I know of a few people that use these cameras, with film and digital backs for architecture and some food(on location) photography. The movements help keep the lines straight(the 50mm however CANNOT be moved more than a few mm due to vignetting), but the 65mm is generally fine enough for most WA shots. nice to have the winder built into the body too . lots of bellows extension for close-up macro stuff. the IIIs version has no movements(swing, shift, tilt), but takes the same lenses and bellows/shades, etc... just no movements, which you might find yourself using quite a bit.
   
   If I were to do it over again, I'd have gone with a gx680III instead of my RZ system, mostly for the movements(think landscapes and some food, some architecural). the lenses are superb however. as good if not better than Zeiss glass IMO. higher in contrast and a little more saturation out of them, but terrific throughout the entire lineup.
   
   the downsides though from what I've found: 1. Weight: this mother's a heavy S.O.B.! heavier IMO than most 4x5 field cameras with 2-3 lenses. You might want to look at getting a small-ish 4x5 with a 6x9 back or something, so you get FULL front and back movements, lenses would be comparable(if you get good 4x5 ones that is) in both price and resolution. and you get the ability to shoot 4x5 if you want to as well, all in the same camera.
   
   just sayin'
   
   -Dan

   
   ​
7. Dec 1, 2009#7
   

   pchongMember

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   I am also at this stage for deciding between II and III. But also am wondering about RZ. As far as I can research, Fuji lenses are better than the excellent RZ lenses.
   
   I am guessing that the Fuji lenses don't feature floating elements, or do they? Would that make them compromised, at least theoretically? Or am I misguided to have to worry about this?
8. Dec 1, 2009#8
   

   keithwmsMember

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   Pchong, I would not say that the Fuji lenses are better than the RZ counterparts. They are similarly capable. The Fuji EBC lenses are a touch contrastier... poke around and I think you will see that some find the contrast unkind for portraiture. But some will rightfully assert that the look can be controlled quite well during the development and printing stages. Bokeh, well, that is a personal issue. Just try the lenses!
   
   Floating elements can indeed be important for wide angle work, esp. if you need critical sharpness out to the edges.
   
   By and large, I don't have many complaints about my experiences with the EBC lenses, but I do recall from a lens-to-lens comparison that the Fuji family for the gx680 is quite small and the number of lenses on the used market very limited. A big advantage one has with RZ/RB gear is that there is so much used gear on the market, you run no risk whatsoever of being unable to find a particular lens, esp. if you are willing to go a generation back or use an RB lens on an RZ body etc. But read up on leaf shutters and shutter speeds etc. and you may find other issues that more important to you.
   
   My advice is to consider whole package(s)... make up a list of all the lenses & peripherals you will want in your kit in the near future, and do the math and compare reviews. It might also make sense to ask questions like, what would it cost for me to have a spare body? Are there wide/long enough lenses for my needs? How much will the whole system cost? And so forth.

   "Only dead fish follow the stream"
   
   [APUG Portfolio] [APUG Blog] [Website]
9. Dec 1, 2009#9
   

   whloganMember

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   I am one of these happy GX 680 users. I have 2 680 bodies and 4 lenses. I love them all. I got the second one off KEH for $27 with the AC power supply. I need the AA battery power pack and will willingly trade any one the AC pack for a AA pack. Pay postage/shiping, too. Or if anyone knows a phone number at Fuji where I could talk to someone who might know if a AA pack was still available, I would be most appreciative. whlogan@loganphotographics.com.....
   I love these cameras.... I use mine as a field camera and I am disabled.... ride on a scooter.... Vietnamese fixed my walking machinery some years back so it no longer works quite right any more...
   Logan